An Eye for an Eye
J-W-Anderson & Hand & Lock has launched his Spring Summer 09 RTW Collection with a collection of garments and accessories embroidered by Hand & Lock.
Hand & Lock Designers Carne Griffiths and Claire Barrett worked alongside Jonathan Anderson in the development of the showpiece, a pair of fully embroidered trousers made from sculptured wire embroidery, and also a selection of accessories including plaited ribbon belts, bracelets and luxurious trimmings for madras scarves.
The work on the trousers began over 12 weeks ago, using imagery chosen by Jonathan Anderson inspired by Carlo Crivelli’s Saint Michael (The Demidoff Altarpiece) the work began with planning the armoured plates that formed around the thigh of the trousers. This was to take the form of a lions head raised in 3 dimensional wire embroidery with taxidermy glass eyes set deep behind the layers of padding that give the embroidery its form. Above this is an illustrative scene created by Carne depicting decayed branches and undergrowth interspersed with fictional creatures a design which stretches around and into the pockets which themselves are embroidered inside and out!
3 Chevrons echoing the military work that Hand & Lock produces protrude from under the lions head and are arranged in such a way that they fan out when the model walks. Again these are solid wire embroidered pieces giving the impression of armour. Under the final chevron are layers of overlapping cloth feathers embellished with wire embroidery shaped to follow the curves of the garment.
The accessories for the collection included beautifully plaited military chinstraps used as a clasp to gather material at the back of shirts, bracelets featuring a taxidermy eye encrusted with antique silver wire embroidery and elegant serif lettering, trompe l’oeil straps and buckles emerging from the seems of vests.
The images below are a selection from the inception of this project through to the backstage preparation and final catwalk images. . . . enjoy
- An Eye for and Eye
- Drawing
- Development of Embroidery Work
- The final piece
- Raised embroidery
- Silver Wire, with Burnt Feathers
- Backstage at J-W- Anderson
Carne Griffiths
Head Designer
Hand & Lock


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