The Christmas season is coming, customize your gift adding the most personalized touch: monograms! This year, Hand & Lock suggests those classy handkerchiefs monogrammed with the initials of your loved one. Learn more about the process.

What’s the process involved in the production of a stylish monogrammed handkerchief:

1. The designs are sketched and re-drawn until perfection onto tracing paper.
2. One of the methods we use to transfer a design is called “prick and pounce”: a small needle helps to punchure holes along the lines of the design.
3. A fine powder is then pushed through the holes onto the fabric that is to be stitched.
4. The monogram is then worked on the Irish machine, in an Irish stitch. The Irish machine is a hand guided machine that can create side stitch and Irish stich, or satin stitch as it is commonly known.
5. Your handkerchief has been monogrammed.

To order your own monogrammed hanki, please visit our online shop.

We all knew it was going to be an exciting and challenging project when a representative from Richard Nicoll came to us 3 weeks before his S/S 2008-09 show with pattern pces in one hand and hundreds of packets of mauve coloured Swarovski pearls in the other!

Richard Nicoll commissioned us to embroider 3 of their show piece garments; these being a very cute mini skirt, knee length slim fit shorts and a structured, fitted one shoulder peplum top. All three were to be completely covered in rows of Swarovski pearls, one after the other, not leaving in inch of the fabric showing through! With the same 1cm wide mauve coloured pearls, we also embroidered a collar piece and the collar and cuffs of a chiffon blouse and large silver Swarovski pearls on a duck egg blue chiffon blouse.

Just one packet of these pearls weighed over 200 grams, so we soon realised that these garments, when completely covered in thousands of pearls, were going to be incredibly heavy. We estimated that we would use approximately 6000 pearls on both the skirt and shorts and over 10,000 for the top! So that’s nearly 5kg for the skirt and shorts and 8kg for the top, probably the heaviest garments on the catwalk!

Our experience of handling all types of fabrics and materials at Hand & Lock, told us that we would definitely need to use an organza backing to support Richard Nicoll’s crepe fabric, as the sheer weight of the pearls would completely distort the shape of the garments and we certainly didn’t want that to happen! Once the preparations were finished, Sara, our RSN trained hand embroiderer and beading specialist, got straight to work!

The majority of the pearls were applied by the technique tambour beading which is the most time effective method of beading a large surface area and was perfect for the clean, linear look that Richard Nicoll was trying to portray with the pearls. The areas around the seams and darts were then individually hand sewn once all the pieces had been made up. It was fabulous to see the transformation from the many pattern pieces to the finished garments, as each garment looked beautifully finished and the rows upon of rows of pearls really caught the eye. We all couldn’t wait to see the garments down the catwalk!

The Richard Nicoll show was held at ‘The Shop at Blue Bird’ on Wednesday 17th Sept at 9.30am, although very early, there was a great buzz of energy in the air. As Hand & Lock were a sponsor of his show, we took our seats and got ready to see the outfits we had embroidered! As the show progressed, it was clear that the mauve and silver pearls were a key theme to his S/S collection, as many of the outfits were styled with accessories using the same pearls. The pearl blouses were the first garments to come out from behind the screens, which we had embroidered. They looked fabulous and stood out from the outfit, the pearls around the collar and cuffs looked very elegant and crisp. The pearl covered skirt, shorts and structured top were left for the closing of the show, each outfit styled differently but done very successfully and those thousands of pearls certainly did turn heads and make the audience prop up on their seats! It was a great feeling happiness and satisfaction! I can’t wait for A/W 2009-10!

Sana Uddin

Studio Manager
Hand & Lock

]]> http://www.handembroidery.com/news/%e2%80%98here-come-the-pearls%e2%80%99/feed/ http://www.handembroidery.com/news/aneyeforaneye/ http://www.handembroidery.com/news/aneyeforaneye/#comments Thu, 16 Oct 2008 16:19:05 +0000 carne http://www.handembroidery.com/?p=478

J-W-Anderson & Hand & Lock has launched his Spring Summer 09 RTW Collection with a collection of garments and accessories embroidered by Hand & Lock.

Hand & Lock Designers Carne Griffiths and Claire Barrett worked alongside Jonathan Anderson in the development of the showpiece, a pair of fully embroidered trousers made from sculptured wire embroidery, and also a selection of accessories including plaited ribbon belts, bracelets and luxurious trimmings for madras scarves.

The work on the trousers began over 12 weeks ago, using imagery chosen by Jonathan Anderson inspired by Carlo Crivelli’s Saint Michael (The Demidoff Altarpiece) the work began with planning the armoured plates that formed around the thigh of the trousers.  This was to take the form of a lions head raised in 3 dimensional wire embroidery with taxidermy glass eyes set deep behind the layers of padding that give the embroidery its form.  Above this is an illustrative scene created by Carne depicting decayed branches and undergrowth interspersed with fictional creatures a design which stretches around and into the pockets which themselves are embroidered inside and out!

3 Chevrons echoing the military work that Hand & Lock produces protrude from under the lions head and are arranged in such a way that they fan out when the model walks. Again these are solid wire embroidered pieces giving the impression of armour.  Under the final chevron are layers of overlapping cloth feathers embellished with wire embroidery shaped to follow the curves of the garment.

The accessories for the collection included beautifully plaited military chinstraps used as a clasp to gather material at the back of shirts, bracelets featuring a taxidermy eye encrusted with antique silver wire embroidery and elegant serif lettering,  trompe l’oeil straps and buckles emerging from the seems of vests.

The images below are a selection from the inception of this project through to the backstage preparation and final catwalk images. . . .   enjoy

Carne Griffiths

Head Designer
Hand & Lock

A friend of the label had drawn two beautiful illustrations of macac monkeys, one crouching over and clutching a piece of fruit and the other monkey, standing up amongst the branches, leaves and flowers. These illustrations caused a stir in our studio and there was a gush of excitement as the monkeys looked so life like, beautifully drawn and very exotic. Qasimi wanted to use these drawings and interpret them into embroidery, and I knew instantly that the drawings lent themselves to the hand embroidery technique of silk shading.

Preparation is key to any embroidery, and as we wanted to maintain the life like appearance of the monkeys, we chose to put varying layers of padding as a base for the embroidery, to give it a more 3- D effect, especially adding more padding to the face and main body. We also had to take an incredible amount of care when handling the fabric, as all the monkeys had to be embroidered onto a beautifully thin and delicate light cream suede. Which therefore meant we needed to cover all the outer areas of suede surrounding the monkey in case of marking, thus making it tricky to embroidery.

The silk shaded monkeys were a complete success, they looked exquisite and the bright, exotic colours of the silks stood out from the light cream suede and the raised areas of each monkey brought the embroidery to life! Perfect for the ethos of Qasimi. However, once these monkeys were finished, it was time for the next challenge!

Qasimi were also interested in the boundaries of embroidery done by computerised machines. Although Hand & Lock is a hand embroidery company, over the years we have built up a very good reputation for machine embroidery, so when the duo called a week before their show asking for three A1 size embroideries to be completed in 5 working days, we said it would be a push but we could do it!

All three A1 designs were of a similar floral pattern to that taken from the lilies and  flowers in the silk shaded monkeys, keeping the bright rich colours but having some flowers enlarged up to 20cm x 20cm for maximum effect for the show. Both of these designs were embroidered onto a cream silk jersey, whereas the third was embroidered onto the same light cream suede as used for the monkeys but to be made up into an embroidered suede corset! All the hand and machine embroidery was then collected the Friday 12th, 3 days before their catwalk show on the Monday 15th  September.

The show was held at the beautifully ornate Central Hall Westminster at 1.30pm with a champagne reception, celebrities and lots of press. The luxury of the Qasimi label continued throughout the show, the outfits were contemporary, beautifully tailored and the main shades of outfits were creams, pale pinks, greys and browns. Therefore, the embroidery definitely brought a splash of colour to the show, giving the outfits a completely different look, making the garments more youthful, quirky with an unexpected softer edge. The hand embroidered monkeys on the back of the suede tailored looked fabulous and alive, the machine embroidered enlarged flowers was made up into an off the shoulder jersey dress which was a definite show piece and the brightly coloured embroidered suede corset stood out among the other outfits. It was fabulous to watch the show and be a part of it. I loved every single bit of the show, but in my opinion I think the embroidery stole the show!

Sana Uddin

Studio Manager
Hand & Lock

Few things evoke ‘England’ in just a word or two. Right at the top of the list, alongside the Queen, cricket and afternoon tea sits Savile Row. Charles Dickens, Winston Churchill, Haile Selassie, Ralph Fiennes, they’ve all had their inside leg measured on this street. Why? Because the day you are outfitted on the Row, you have arrived. A Savile Row bespoke suit doesn’t clothe you, it announces you. Savile Row has even made its way into other languages - the Japanese word for suit is ’saburo’, a straight phonetic copy.

Like Cork Street galleries, Jermyn Street shirts and Bond street jewellers, it has its own energy, its own senseof heritage. There is so much more to Savile Row than just a street address. It is a reference point for fashion around the world. Look at Alexander McQueen or Stella McCartney, who both trained here, or Tom Ford and Ralph Lauren, who have both leant on it for inspiration.

One of the best things about having a true bespoke piece is that, as a one-off made solely for one person with the very highest production values, each one represents British craftsmanship at its finest. And because they are not covered in logos or awash with branding, the suits show that their wearers have a thorough appreciation for what really constitutes style and GQ quality.

England equals men’s elegance. It is a laboratory for men’s design. And now Savile Row suits are appealing to an ever-younger audience: savvy, stylish men who are after something different, who aren’t content to just wander up and around Picadilly and Oxford Street like everyone else. Because  of that, standards are higher than ever and the suit - a resurgent garment if ever there were one - is a cause worth championing. Suits you? But of course! Visit GQ.com to see pictures of the GQ Anniversary windows.

GQ December 2008, Twenty Golden Years of Style and Success

To find out more about our work with Richard Nicoll, Qasimi and J. W. Anderson click on the images.

Congratulations to Ms. Maria Lavigina from Shenkar College of Engineering and Design, Israel, 1st prize  winner of the 2008 Hand & Lock Prize for Embroidery.

Judging took place in Hand & Lock studio in Central London on Friday 5th September. Maria presented an evening gown styled with a decorative belt, highly embellished with different embroidery techniques. The belt embroidered on Duchess satin was inspired by Giger’s work and demonstrates strong embroidery skills using trapunto and beaded work. Maria will be presented with a cheque for $15,000 USD along with a host of other awards presented by sponsors of the Prize at this years ‘Embroidery … in Fashion’ conference to be held at the London College of Fashion on 8th November 2008.

Our congratulations goes as well to second and third prize winners Victoria Ann Relph from the University of Cumbria, and Solomon Harris-Light from Raffles University, Australia. Victoria and Solomon both submitted wonderful pieces, respectively an embroidered hat and a remarkable grey dress with a succession of sequins.

This year, the quality of the entries was so high that judges could not agree only on 3 winners. Therefore, for the first time in the Prize history it has been decided that the commendation will not go to one student only but to two! The 2008 Hand & Lock Prize for Embroidery commendations go to:

• Victoria Helen Geary from Falmouth University College
• Edward Tung from Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising, USA

The Madeira Prize of $1,700 USD that reward the highest placed college or university to include the ‘Hand & Lock Prize for Embroidery’ prize brief within its curriculum goes to the University of Cumbria (UK).

This 2008 Hand & Lock Prize for Embroidery certainly was the year for new: we are proud to introduce a new sponsor CRYSTALLIZED(tm) - Swarovski Elements. The first 2008 Swarovski prize was awarded to Jan Knibbs from Bath Spa University; Jan will be presented a Crystal trophy by CRYSTALLIZED(tm) - Swarovski Elements.

To see all the second stage entrans work please click here

Garments from all second stage entrants’ work from the 2008 prize will be part of the Fashion Show hosted at this years Conference on Saturday 8th November. This show will run alongside catwalk collections from LCF students, and some of the exciting designers we supported at London Fashion Week.

For more information about the Conference please visit: www.handembroidery.co.uk/2008embroideryconference

The band, comprising some 20 cadets and made up of side drums, bugles and base drum, competed against 9 other Sea Cadet bands from throughout the United Kingdom - Woking, Fife and Tayside, Sutton Coldfield, York, Hartlepool, Stevenage, Whitstable, Tunbridge Wells and Weston Super Mare.

This was the first time that the Barrow-in-Furness Sea Cadet Unit, representing the North West of England, had competed at a National Sea Cadet band final against many bands who were experienced, perennial competitors.

The band delivered a stunning 10 minute marching and musical performance, where they were assessed on dress, deportment, technical ability and level of entertainment for the large audience amassed at Plymouth Hoe. The band was superbly led by their Drum Major, Leading Cadet Sam Greenway, throughout the marching display. The Drum Major was extremely proud to be wearing the new Drum Major’s Sash, which has been sponsored by the Barrow Branch of the Submariners Association and a local businessman. It arrived from the manufacturers, Hand and Lock of London just three days before the competition. The sash bears the crests of the Sea Cadet Corps, the Submariners Association and HMS SOVEREIGN to whom the Barrow Unit has been affiliated since 1973.

A delighted Bandmaster, Lieutenant Jason Zaccarini, said “The band went with no expectation other than to compete, deliver an entertaining performance and to learn from the experience of watching and competing against the other bands in the competition. The performance that the cadets delivered was fantastic and they truly are a credit to themselves, their unit and to the town of Barrow. To come away with the winners of the UK’s Best Traditional Drum & Bugle Band was an added bonus.”

T.S. Sovereign, Barrow Sea & Marine Cadet Unit, parade every Tuesday & Friday between
7.00 p.m. and 9.15 p.m. at their headquarters at 1 Dundee Street, Barrow Island, Tel 01229 821945. The Unit is open to boys and girls between the ages of 12 and 18 years, with the band practising every Saturday morning. Further information about the Unit can be found on the website http://units.ms-sc.org/barrow

Gathering inspirations from all his experiences, Jonathan Anderson launched his own label: J. W. Anderson. The brand made its debut in 2007, when Jonathan presented his first collection for Spring/Summer 2008 at London Fashion week.

Heavily influenced by Jonathan’s childhood in Ireland and his drama studies in the USA, the label’s theatrical and evocative style uses fantastical stories and fabulous references from the past to create J.W. Anderson’s extraordinarily beautiful, textural and sculptural menswear and bold ornaments. The use of a wide variety of textile arts has seen collaborations with Irish knitting, and with bespoke embroiderers Hand & Lock as the label pushes traditional skills to new dimensions.

His second collection has been worked in conjunction with Carne Griffiths - Hand & Lock’s design Director- with some fabulous embroidered pieces. All will be unveiled on September 14th at his show at the London Fashion Week (watch this space).