Hand and Lock Embroidery

Exeter Cap of Maintenance.

It was an honour for Hand & Lock to be asked to produce the embroidery for Exeter City Council’s Cap of Maintenance.

From an embroidery point of view this project was a real challenge.  Our project began with a visit to the Museum to meet with Helen Jaeschke, where we were able to study the original Cap and Scabard, make technical drawings and take measurements and photographs.  The challenge of producing the cap was aided by the Hat MAker who produced pattern pieces which would form the base of the hat.

It became apparent early on that we would have to create special gold wires and threads for this project as many of those used on the original hat were finer than those readily available today.  Whilst the wire was in production I began work making the drawings and took another trip to exeter to study the levels of raising that were used to make the 3 dimensional crest on the top of the Cap.  By producing contour drawings we were able to recreate the delicate layers of the two bearers on the crest.  The recreation of the horses was a challenge in terms of embroidery, and in terms of matching the original as the embroiderers were only able to work from reference photographs and from my drawings.

Six panels made up the sides of the cap and each were embroidered separately in a frame.  Using passing threads and gold spangles each piece was designed to recreate a cross pattee and fleur de lys – typical of the emblems found on a coronet or crown.

After over 1000 hours of embroidery work we were able to pass the embroidery over to Helena for inspection, and in turn to have the hat made up.

It was an honour to be involved in such a project, and a privilege to have the chance to embroider an item with so much historical significance.